Walking The Streets Of Old Manila Again
It was a Saturday and there was a long line at the ticket booth of the LRT station in Santolan. I was bound for Recto and the security guard was waving, apparently pointing where the counter for senior citizens was. How did he know I was a senior citizen? By sheer look? Did my physical appearance betray my real age? Anyway, I ignored the guard and opted to stick to the line as it was moving fast.
For 15 pesos and after a 20-minute- travel time, I was at the Recto terminal which connects to a shopping arcade that used to be the old Odeon theater. There were stalls selling cheap DVDs. I bought three, all old Clint Eastwood films - Dirty Harry, Sudden Impact & The Dead Pool. All three for P150. I was looking for Magnum Force but I didn't find one.
Standing at the corner of Claro M.Recto and Avenida Rizal, I could see the old Roman Cinerama which is now Isetann Shopping Mall. The Asia Chicharon Factory, original makers of chicharon bulaklak, had closed shop many years back. Same with Avenue and Ideal theaters. Madison Department Store is surprisingly still there but now on the other side of Avenida Rizal. As I was turning left at Raon street, a middle aged woman approached me and said: "Sir, ano pagagawa nyo? Diploma, ID, passport, certificate, kahit ano kaya namin gayahin." I replied in jest : " Gawa mo nga ako marriage contract na kasal ako kay Demi Moore. Pwede ba yon? "
With hawkers offering tools and gadgets and literally occupying the sidewalk, I continued walking casually, passing through the busy streets of Evangelista, Soler and Hidalgo. As I reached Quezon Blvd, the inviting smell of hot noodles took me to the old R. Ma Mon Luk resto which is an older establishment than the one near Banawe. The resto has not been upgraded and still uses old bowls and spoons. I had mami and siopao, what else?
Several meters away from Ma Mon Luk is the Quiapo Church which prides itself of owning the 17th century image of the Black Nazarene and where thousands of devotees flock to on special occassions. While it is true that in our college days we used to pass by Quiapo Church almost everyday on board Manny King's car, we never bothered to stop and say a little prayer. Now was the first time and I took a seat at the last row. Vendors of rosaries, stampitas, potions or gayumas and other herbal concoctions were relocated to the Evangelista side of the church. As I stepped out, I inquired: " Alin ba dyan ang para sa nade delay? Yung di pa na...." Without waiting for me to finish, the lady vendor butted in: " Eto sir, sigurado ito. Wala yang pino problema nyo." I countered: " Wala ako pino problema. Nagtatanong lang ako."
I continued walking towards Carriedo street. It has been closed permanently to traffic to give way to ambulants. I glanced at my cell's watch. It was 4pm. I walked hurriedly this time. I reckoned that I needed to have a fast pace to be able to cover the Escolta and Binondo areas. I looked at the sky. Dark clouds were forming. The more I hurried my pace. More pressure. I was now beginning to feel pain in my right big toe.
Looking again at my return-trip ticket, I realized this time that there was no need to move in haste. I took a calesa and in a few minutes, I was in another world. Never mind the time. Never mind the appointments for the night. I instructed the cuchero to proceed to Divisoria as the overworked horse pulling the carriage took a pee as we crossed the Dasmarinas bridge. The horse wouldn't move. I was laughing. The cuchero was laughing too. I was now more relaxed. No longer conscious of the time.
- Konted
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LRT station in Santolan, Pasig |
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20 minute-travel time from Santolan to Recto |
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Roman Cinerama is now Isetann Shopping Mall |
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Stretch of Evangelista St from Recto to Carriedo |
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What used to be Odeon theater is now a shopping arcade |
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Old Clint Eastwood films |
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Madison Department Store(1945) is still going strong |
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Raon Street |
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Sidewalk at Raon St. |
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Remote control gadgets for P80 |
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Old Ma Mon Luk Resto (1920) in Quiapo |
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Regular Mami & Siopao |
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Photo of Quiapo Church taken from Plaza Miranda |
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Interior of Quiapo Church |
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The Original Black Nazarene |
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Evangelista side of Quiapo Church |
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Globe Fresh Lumpia |
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Sta Cruz Church |
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Facade of Sta Cruz Church |
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The old Regina Bldg at the entrance of Escolta st. |
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Capitol theater is no longer operational |
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Signboard is all that is left of Syvel's Department Store |
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The original Savory Fried Chicken (1950) along Escolta st. Photo taken from Jones Bridge |
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Main Post Office across the Pasig River |
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Sun Wah (now Wah Sun) has been there (near Recto) since 1955 |
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Ambos Mundos (1888) in front of Sun Wah |
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Jose Rizal's favorite hangout (1888) on T. Pinpin st. |
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Binondo's welcome sign |
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Dragon Dance |
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Mr. Ube is famous for its noodles and dim sum |
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Fire truck on standby for any eventuality |
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Binondo Church |
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Binondo Church's interior. Wedding theme song is Unchained Melody.. |
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Eng Bee Tin is known for its delicious hopia |
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Assorted Eng Bee Tin products |
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Chinese fast food resto near Binondo Church |
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Quick service |
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168 Shopping Mall in Divisoria |
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Cheap prices at 168 shopping mall |
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Wholesale and retail prices |
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RC toy car for only P300 |
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Assorted toys |
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All sizes available |
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Men's wear |
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More to choose from |
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General merchandise store |
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Air conditioned |
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Fancy accessories |
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Fast Food section |
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Clean as clean can be |
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Delicious Chinese products |
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At the 3rd floor of 168
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Wait for your turn |
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Lomi for P90 |
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LRT's Recto Terminal |