1.28.2012

Walking The Streets Of Old Manila Again


Walking The Streets Of Old Manila Again

              It was a Saturday and there was a long line at the ticket booth of the LRT station in Santolan. I was bound for Recto and the security guard was waving, apparently pointing where the counter for senior citizens was.  How did he know I was a senior citizen?  By sheer look? Did my physical appearance betray my real age?  Anyway, I ignored the guard and opted to stick to the line as it was moving fast.  

              For 15 pesos and after a 20-minute- travel time, I was at the Recto terminal which connects to a shopping arcade that used to be the old Odeon theater. There were stalls selling cheap DVDs. I bought three, all old Clint Eastwood films - Dirty Harry, Sudden Impact & The Dead Pool.  All three for P150.  I was looking for Magnum Force but I didn't find one.

             Standing at the corner of Claro M.Recto and Avenida Rizal, I could see the old Roman Cinerama which is now Isetann Shopping Mall. The Asia Chicharon Factory, original makers of chicharon bulaklak, had closed shop many years back. Same with Avenue and Ideal theaters.  Madison Department Store is surprisingly still there but now on the other side of Avenida Rizal.  As I was turning left at Raon street, a middle aged woman approached me and said: "Sir, ano pagagawa nyo? Diploma, ID, passport, certificate, kahit ano kaya namin gayahin."  I replied in jest : " Gawa mo nga ako marriage contract na kasal ako kay Demi Moore.  Pwede ba yon? "

          With hawkers offering tools and gadgets and literally occupying the sidewalk, I continued walking casually, passing through the busy streets of Evangelista, Soler and Hidalgo.  As I reached Quezon Blvd, the inviting smell of hot noodles took me to the old R. Ma Mon Luk resto which is an older establishment than the one near Banawe. The resto has not been upgraded and still uses old bowls and spoons.  I had mami and siopao, what else?

            Several meters away from Ma Mon Luk is the Quiapo Church which prides itself of owning the 17th century image of the Black Nazarene and where thousands of devotees flock to on special occassions.  While it is true that in our college days we used to pass by Quiapo Church almost everyday on board Manny King's car, we never bothered to stop and say a little prayer.  Now was the first time and I took a seat at the last row.  Vendors of rosaries, stampitas, potions or gayumas and other herbal concoctions were relocated to the Evangelista side of the church.  As I stepped out, I inquired:  " Alin ba dyan ang para sa nade delay? Yung di pa na...."  Without waiting for me to finish, the lady vendor butted in: " Eto sir, sigurado ito. Wala yang pino problema nyo."  I countered:  " Wala ako pino problema.  Nagtatanong lang ako."

            I continued walking towards Carriedo street.  It has been closed permanently to traffic to give way to ambulants.  I glanced at my cell's watch.  It was 4pm.  I walked hurriedly this time.  I reckoned that I needed to have a fast pace to be able to cover the Escolta and Binondo areas. I looked at the sky.  Dark clouds were forming.  The more I hurried my pace. More pressure. I was now beginning to feel pain in my right big toe.  

            Looking again at my return-trip ticket, I realized this time that there was no need to move in haste.  I took a calesa and in a few minutes, I was in another world.  Never mind the time.  Never mind the appointments for the night. I instructed the cuchero to proceed to Divisoria as the overworked horse pulling the carriage took a pee as we crossed the Dasmarinas bridge. The horse wouldn't move.  I was laughing. The cuchero was laughing too. I was now more relaxed.  No longer conscious of the time.

- Konted

LRT station in Santolan, Pasig


20 minute-travel time from Santolan to Recto


Roman Cinerama is now Isetann Shopping Mall


Stretch of Evangelista St from Recto to Carriedo
What used to be Odeon theater is now a shopping arcade
Old Clint Eastwood films
Madison Department Store(1945) is still going strong
Raon Street


Sidewalk at Raon St.


Remote control gadgets for P80


Old Ma Mon Luk Resto (1920) in Quiapo


Regular Mami & Siopao


Photo of Quiapo Church taken from Plaza Miranda


Interior of Quiapo Church


The Original Black Nazarene


Evangelista side of Quiapo Church


Globe Fresh Lumpia


Sta Cruz Church


Facade of Sta Cruz Church




The old Regina Bldg at the entrance of  Escolta st.


Capitol theater is no longer operational


Signboard is all that is left of Syvel's Department Store


The original Savory Fried Chicken (1950) along Escolta st. Photo taken  from Jones Bridge


Main Post Office across the Pasig River


Sun Wah (now Wah Sun) has been there (near Recto) since 1955


Ambos Mundos (1888) in front of Sun Wah 


Jose Rizal's favorite hangout (1888) on T. Pinpin st.


Binondo's welcome sign
Dragon Dance


Mr. Ube is famous for its noodles and dim sum


Fire truck on standby for any eventuality


Binondo Church


Binondo Church's interior. Wedding theme song is Unchained Melody..


Eng Bee Tin is known for its delicious hopia


Assorted Eng Bee Tin products


Chinese fast food resto near Binondo Church


Quick service


168 Shopping Mall in Divisoria


Cheap prices at 168 shopping mall


Wholesale and retail prices
RC toy car for only P300


Assorted toys


All sizes available


Men's wear
More to choose from
General merchandise store


Air conditioned


Fancy accessories


Fast Food section


Clean as clean can be


Delicious Chinese products
At the 3rd floor of 168


Wait for your turn


Lomi for P90


LRT's Recto Terminal