10.02.2011

Of Mountain Roads, Black Pigs And Red Rice



**late posting

Baguio - Nueva Viscaya Road

Of Mountain Roads, Black Pigs And Red Rice

June 2

9:10 PM


Sir Knight Tony Bueno,


It is nice to know I got it right. Our meeting last Sunday at Session Road was not, as you mentioned, a chance encounter. It was willed by God. For how would you explain the fact that you were able to catch sight of me at Session Road at a time when there was a heavy concentration of people and also at a time when you were driving? It was His way of reconnecting old friends who had not seen each other for ages.


Tony, our weekend trip was worth the time, the money and the effort as it took us to places we had not seen before. I drove for 7hours from Manila to Solano, Nueva Viscaya as there was no one to relieve me. Resting and having lunch at a friend's house in Solano, I felt I was in another world. Or better yet, in the old world and with the old ways. No air pollution, no noise distraction, well paved highways that took us to some places seemingly resisting modernization. Hectares and hectares of open space intended for rice planting. Old cemeteries atop a lonely hill. Rich farmer mounting his Kubota type of hand tractor. Old rice mills that have been there for generations. Nueva Viscaya is indeed beautiful. 


Oh, I forgot to tell you, Tony, that I partook, for the first time, 'red rice' which was really delectable. And a roasted black native pig which Nueva Viscaya-born writer Joe Quirino often mentioned in his short stories.  After lunch, we motored to the famed Banawe Rice Terraces, passing through the capital town of Lagawe, Kiangan, Hingyan and finally Banawe. I remember that I used to see beautiful pictures of what was dubbed as "the eighth wonder of the world" in my grade school days. Finally I reached the place at age 60. 


I gazed and gazed for about an hour at Ifugao's marvel. Though I had little sleep, I felt no tiredness and seemed to be pumped up by the majestic views throughout the 2hour ride from Solano. It was dusk when we drove back to Nueva Viscaya. Just the same, driving was easy as I thought that no harm would befall us.


Right after a late breakfast the following day, we bade farewell to our hospitable friends as we inquired as to the safest and shortest route to the City of Pines. We were told to take the newly rehabilitated Aritao - Baguio Road. At the Aritao junction, we turned right as we began our 107 km trip to Baguio. And as it turned out, the road was truly in superb condition with safety barriers at every dangerous cliff. We would ascend for several kilometers and then would descend as we crossed bridges after bridges to get to the next mountain that was part of the Cordillera Mountain Range. We crossed a total of 15 bridges.

The construction of this magnificent road is indeed an outstanding engineering feat. I was so much awed by the beauty and design of this winding road that I now consider this as the Mother of All Zigzag Roads. It is one notch higher than Kennon Road, Naguilian Road and the Marcos Highway. All three pale in comparison to the Benguet-Nueva Viscaya Road.

And at about 30 kms away from Baguio, we had our lunch at a specially designed covered station with a commanding view of Ambuklao Dam. Tall pine trees abound in this area as we began to feel the cool breeze and smell the scent of burning pine cone. Sensing that Baguio town proper was just a few minutes away, I pumped on the gas of my bantam and with our excitement escalating, I threw caution to the wind. And to my surprise, the exit point was at Wright Park near Pacdal/Navy Base which used to be my turf. I was back on homeground !!!

As we ascended Leonard Wood Ave., I was telling my companions that 30 years ago, that particular area near Baguio Cathedral was our rendezvous every working day. I mentioned in particular Peter Mabanta, Doc Centeno, George Pacheco and, of course, Tony Bueno. It was really a short trip down memory lane.

Then that Session Road encounter with you happened. Your invitation to stay in your house and Peter's call put me in a quandary. To stay for the night or drive home as planned. But the constant, emotional appeal of one of our companions moved me to decide to leave for Manila on the same day. But I promised you and Peter that I would be back soonest. And I will be true to my commitment to you. As I told you earlier, the eagerness to see you all again is there and this early, I am reloading my back pack. And please Tony, make sure that Val Faliao and Art Sanchez are on your list to complete the original cast of BX 80's. 

Good Health and God Bless !! 


- Konted

Ambuklao Dam

Stop over near the dam

Burnham Park

No hassle reaching Banaue

The famed Rice Terraces

Posing for souvenir photos

From another angle

Souvenir shop

Ifugao-made woodcrafts

Seat of Power in the mountains

Fine weaving by the Highlanders

Getting ready for another long trip

Teacher Etrina (left) of Solano, Nueva Viscaya giving some pointers

Historic Dalton Pass

Santa Fe, Nueva Viscaya

Narrow road leading to the mountains
Planting season **file pic

Black native pig being readied for next day's roasting

Nueva Viscaya's red rice

Roasting is almost done

Vast open field with mountain slopes as backdrop